Don't ask me how I ended up living in a state where there is no surf. The move was mostly based on job opportunity and affordable living. Everyday I hear the same thing, "so do you miss it", "why would you move away". And I answer "i miss the ocean and the waves", and, "i have no idea why I moved away". It's a partial truth, because i know why I'm here and yet I don't know why I moved away.
It seemed like moving away from the ocean and from the surf was a gradual thing for me. First it was Arizona, lots of sand, no surf. Figures the next step would be to move next to the Great Salt Lake, sand, salty water, but surf-none whatsoever. I've tried to fill the void by going to the Waverider, fun, but i still leave feeling empty. When I do get a chance to go home to Hawaii believe me I am not there for my family, all I want to do is surf, thankfully my family surfs too.
Many times driving past the salt lake I've seen ripples created by the strong winds and I think, if only I were a gecko(a surfing gecko). These waves would be perfect 3-5 foot waves and i would be the only one surfing them. I've even started scheming to build some type of barrier, a big one so that when the winds start blowing it will create some kind of wave. But alas, the salt lake sits there placid and my plans disappear into the salty depths.
My next step is to take a paddle board out and just start paddling, at least i will be in the salty water, and keep my arms, back and shoulders fit. One day i will get brave enough to ride it down the Jordan river-gross I know.
I love surfing but i don't need to explain that feeling to anyone else. And while I am here there are still some surfing that can be explored. I haven't done wake surfing so I guess I will start there.
Friday, July 30, 2010
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